Let's give the woods the spring haircut - Deník.cz

We cut mainly for safety or to support vitality, fruit tree cuts bring higher yields. As a rule, cuts are not recommended for conifers. Exceptions are yews, yews, cypresses and cypress trees, but we should limit ourselves to shaping. We do not shorten spruces, pines or larches, we remove as many dry and damaged branches as possible. We should not remove the lower branches too high, this will reduce the stability of the tree and there is a risk of overturning.

In the spring, only autumn shrubs

In the spring, we cut the shrubs that bloom in the fall, such as hollyhock, St. John's wort, comulus, hydrangea or heather. For those that bloom during the spring months, we would thereby limit their flowering. The so-called pruning of bushes is important, when overgrown shoots are removed, while young and two-year-old shoots are left. "It is a bad habit to cut bushes and conifers into regular shapes. It won't harm the trees intended for hedges, but it brings considerable harm to others," says arborist Zdeněk Mutina from Zúpaz horticulture.

When cutting a larger scale, the cut should not exceed a diameter of 50 mm, in exceptional cases 100 mm. The cuts must be smooth, we must not indent the bark or split part of the branch. "It is best to use the so-called triple cut method, especially for heavier and longer branches. First, we make a cut to 1/3 of the branch from below, about 20 cm from the planned cut. Then we make the top cut, away from the trunk. We cut until the branch falls off. Finally, we make the final third cut in the planned place, usually at the branch collar. The cut should be as short as possible, perpendicular to the branch. It is good to use hand scissors for small cuts, lever scissors or a saw for larger ones. Both the cut and the cut should be done at the same time so that the wound is straight. In the event of an uneven cut, it is recommended to level the wound with a garden knife. This will support faster and safer healing," explains Zdeněk Mutina.

There is no cut like a cut

We can divide cuts into four basic groups. The first consists of foundation cuts, when it involves establishing the crowns of young trees and grasping their crowns. This includes, for example, a comparative section during planting, with which we compare the size of the root system and the crown. Carrying out more radical cuts is recommended precisely during spring planting, when up to 50 percent of the branch volume can be removed. An educational cut is also important, which can create a "traditional crown" of the given species. It is the most important type of pruning, neglecting which can cause major problems in the further growth of the tree. Mainly near the sidewalk and roads, the so-called underpass (2.5 m) and underpass (5 m) height should gradually be created on the basis of this section.

The second group consists of maintenance cuts, providing regular care for adolescent trees. A health cut increases vitality and operational safety. During this cut, we remove dry, broken, diseased and crossing branches. An important part of this cut is the removal of competing terminal shoots and the removal of so-called pressure forks, i.e. branches at too sharp an angle. This cut is ideal to be made during the period of full vegetation. The third group consists of stabilization cuts, which reduce the crown with the aim of reducing the risk of the tree toppling and breaking the trunk. They should not be carried out on healthy trees, they could permanently damage them. These cuts have their time during the dormant season.

The fourth group is shaping cuts, which are performed at regular intervals to maintain the required crown shapes. These include, for example, the modification of hedges and walls, which we can cut several times during the year and usually only shorten thin branches. This cutting can be done practically at any time, we should only skip periods of severe frosts or extreme heat and drought.

There is no saw like a saw

The right tools are also important for cutting and trimming woody plants, which will make the work easier and faster. Ordinary garden owners will be more than satisfied with the range of chainsaws, hand shears or adjustable pole saws available from supermarkets and gardening shops. Eco-friendly one-handed electric saws are becoming more and more popular.

Mainly with thought

Those who do not dare to prune or are not sure, can use the services of a gardener or arborist. Trees and shrubs treated by them will be healthy, vital, safe and will delight us for decades to come. "Let's approach trees with respect, some of them have been here longer than us and will continue to be. In addition, they face stress factors such as road salt, dry habitats, artificial lighting or mechanical injuries. Their growth space is often limited by buildings, power lines, paving or surrounding traffic. Let's take into account that if we intend to remove a tree, it will often not be possible to replant it back in some locations, for example due to engineering networks. Trimmings thus become the only possible solution for their preservation. You can learn more about this topic on the website of the arborist academy," concludes arborist Zdeněk Mutina.

EXPERT OPINION

Arborist Zdeněk Mutina, co-owner of horticulture ZÚPAZ Bohumín

How should we treat tree cuttings? Until recently, wounds were treated in various ways. It was painted with everything that was at hand - luxol, latex and other paints. It is recommended not to cover the wounds today. By covering the wound, we do not reduce the risk of pathogens entering. The coating also makes it more difficult to check a correctly guided cut and increases the financial complexity of the work. The exception is covering wounds for aesthetic reasons. In this case, only tree balm is recommended.

What problems do you most often encounter as an arborist? I would point out the winter and spring cuts "round" or "flat". From such inexpertly pruned bushes, long shoots will grow during the vegetation period, quite often without flowers. We often see bushes trimmed in this way in public spaces. Unfortunately.

Where are the most common mistakes made when cutting fruit trees? Fruit trees are a separate chapter. With them, the cutting time is significantly different for pome fruits, i.e. apple and pear, and stone fruits (plums, plums, apricots, peaches, cherries, sour cherries) or for small fruits such as gooseberries, currants, raspberries or hosta. Here it is possible to make a cut according to the instructions in the publications, but even with them it is necessary to know the basic rules - i.e. not only the time of the cut and its size, but also whether to make the cut to the inner and outer bud according to the individual fruit varieties. If we do not cut correctly, the tree will "reward" us with little or no harvest, or a number of "wolves", i.e. lush shoots growing perpendicular to the ground, will appear on the trees.